The Unreachable Island

30 May 2025

The Unreachable Island

After a week of sailing we arrive at Ascension. We are anchored at Clearance bay, near the settlement of Georgetown. To set foot ashore, we still have one hurdle to overcome: the dinghy ride. Although the trip towards the shore is manageable, getting to the dock is a big challenge. As Ascension is a small island in the middle of the open Atlantic, there is nothing to stop large rollers from washing over the quay. But with a little good timing and determination, we all land relatively dry. 

Georgetown is small and quiet with a mix of old and new military buildings and a nice mix of different architectural styles. The most dominant landscape is a rather dry volcanic landscape with little vegetation. The small nature park ‘Green Mountain’ high on the volcano is a counterpoint to the areas closer to the coast with its lush vegetation.

Ascension is also a spectacular hotspot for wildlife. We see Ascension frigate birds circling high above us at the anchorage, small black triggerfish crowding around the ship, the so-called slender dolphins (pantropical spotted dolphin) escorting us into the bay, beautiful white tropicbirds flying above the beaches and probably most magical of all is to see the giant green sea turtles laying their eggs on the beach and following the tiny turtles hatching from their eggs on their treacherous journey out to sea. The fact that we were, exceptionally, allowed to land here makes this visit extra special.